Fishing Reels

Why Your Reel Is Just as Important as Your Rod

Here’s a truth most anglers learn the hard way: a $300 rod paired with a $30 reel will perform worse than a $100 rod with a $150 reel. Your reel is where the magic happens—smooth drags prevent break-offs, quality gears ensure reliable retrieves, and proper balance makes casting effortless.

After testing hundreds of reels over two decades, I’ve seen anglers waste thousands of dollars on the wrong equipment. They buy cheap reels that fail during trophy fish fights. They choose the wrong type for their fishing style. They don’t understand gear ratios, drag systems, or bearing counts.

This guide changes that. By the end, you’ll understand exactly which reel you need, why it matters, and how to get the best value for your money.

Whether you’re buying your first reel or upgrading to tournament-grade equipment, this guide has you covered. Let’s start with the basics.

What Is a Fishing Reel?

A fishing reel is a mechanical device that stores, deploys, and retrieves fishing line. But modern reels are far more sophisticated than simple line storage—they’re precision-engineered systems designed to cast lures, fight fish, and withstand years of abuse.

The Three Functions of a Fishing Reel

1. Line Storage & Management

Reels hold hundreds of yards of fishing line in an organized spool. Quality reels prevent line twist, tangles, and loops that plague cheaper models. The spool design affects casting distance, line capacity, and overall performance.

2. Casting Function

During casting, the reel releases line smoothly and consistently. Spinning reels let line flow off in coils. Baitcasting reels rotate the spool. Each system has advantages—spinning excels with light lures, baitcasting offers more control with heavy lures.

3. Retrieve & Drag Function

This is where reel quality becomes obvious. The retrieve system (gears, handle, bail) brings line back. The drag system (friction discs, washers) applies controlled pressure during fish fights. Premium reels have silky-smooth drags and powerful gears. Budget reels have inconsistent drags and weak gears.

Why Reel Quality Matters

You can get away with a budget rod. You cannot get away with a budget reel. Here’s why:

• Lost fish: Poor drags apply inconsistent pressure, causing line breaks or thrown hooks
• Shorter lifespan: Cheap gears strip under pressure, bearings fail, components corrode
• Frustration: Line twist, backlashes, and tangles ruin fishing days
• Higher long-term cost: Replacing a $40 reel every year costs more than buying one $150 reel

Types of Fishing Reels

There are three main reel types, each designed for specific fishing situations. Understanding these differences is critical to choosing correctly.

1. Spinning Reels

Best For: Beginners, versatile fishing, light lures, finesse techniques

Spinning reels hang below the rod with an open-face spool. Line peels off in coils during casting. They’re the most popular reel type worldwide and for good reason—they’re easy to use and incredibly versatile.

How Spinning Reels Work

The spool remains stationary during casting. A bail arm (wire loop) flips open, allowing line to flow freely. After casting, you turn the handle, which closes the bail and begins retrieve. The rotor (rotating arm) winds line onto the spool.

Advantages:

• No backlash—perfect for beginners
• Excellent for light lures (1/16 oz to 1/2 oz)
• Long casting distance with light lines
• Works well in windy conditions
• Less expensive than baitcasters (generally)
• Easy line management

Disadvantages:

• Line twist over time
• Less accurate than baitcasters for experienced anglers
• Weaker on very heavy fish (saltwater)
• Bail mechanism can fail

Common Sizes: 1000 to 5000 (freshwater), 6000+ (saltwater)
Typical Uses: Bass, trout, walleye, panfish, light saltwater
Price Range: $30 to $600+

2. Baitcasting Reels

Best For: Experienced anglers, heavy lures, precision casting, power fishing

Baitcasting reels sit on top of the rod with a revolving spool. They offer superior power and accuracy but require practice to master.

How Baitcasting Reels Work

During casting, the spool rotates to release line. Your thumb controls spool speed to prevent backlashes (bird’s nests). Modern baitcasters have braking systems that help, but thumb control is still essential. The direct drive from handle to spool provides more power than spinning reels.

Advantages:

• Superior casting accuracy once mastered
• More power for fighting big fish
• Better for heavy lures (1/4 oz to 3 oz+)
• No line twist
• More direct connection to fish
• Higher retrieve power

Disadvantages:

• Steep learning curve—backlashes are inevitable at first
• More expensive than spinning reels
• Struggles with very light lures (under 1/4 oz)
• Requires more maintenance
• Not ideal for windy conditions (beginners)

Common Sizes: Measured by line capacity (e.g., “150 yards of 12 lb line”)
Typical Uses: Bass fishing (most popular), pike, muskie, salmon, heavy saltwater
Price Range: $50 to $800+

3. Fly Fishing Reels

Best For: Fly fishing, trout, salmon, specialized presentations

Fly reels are simple mechanical devices designed to store fly line and provide drag during fish fights. Unlike spinning and baitcasting reels, fly reels don’t aid in casting—the fly line’s weight does that.

How Fly Reels Work

Fly reels are essentially fancy line storage. You cast using the fly rod and line. The reel stores backing (heavy line), fly line, and provides adjustable drag when a fish runs. Most fly fishing involves “hand-stripping” line rather than using the reel for retrieve.

Types of Fly Reels:

• Click-and-pawl: Simple, mechanical drag (clicking sound)
• Disc drag: Modern, smooth drag system (most common)
• Large arbor: Bigger spool diameter for faster retrieve

Common Sizes: Matched to fly line weight (3-weight to 12-weight)
Typical Uses: Trout, salmon, steelhead, saltwater flats
Price Range: $50 to $1,000+

4. Specialty Reels

Spincast Reels (Closed-Face)

Simple push-button reels covered by a cone. Great for kids and absolute beginners but limited in performance. Line capacity and drag systems are weak compared to other types.

Trolling Reels

Heavy-duty baitcasting-style reels designed for trolling. Feature strong drags, high line capacity, and no casting capability. Used primarily in deep-sea fishing.

Reel Anatomy & Components

Understanding reel parts helps you make informed decisions and perform basic maintenance.

Spinning Reel Components

The Spool

Holds fishing line. Spool size affects line capacity and casting distance. Larger spools cast farther but add weight. Material matters—aluminum is lighter, graphite is cheaper.

The Bail

Wire arm that opens and closes to control line release and retrieval. Quality bails snap closed reliably. Cheap bails bend, stick, or fail to close.

The Rotor

Rotating arm that winds line onto the spool. Connected to the handle through the gear system. Balanced rotors reduce wobble and vibration.

The Handle

What you turn to retrieve line. Can be single or double knob. Higher-end reels have ergonomic handles with comfortable grips.

The Drag System

Adjustable friction system that allows line to slip under pressure. Front drag (knob on front of spool) or rear drag (knob at back of reel). Front drags are smoother and more powerful.

The Gear System

Internal gears that translate handle rotation into rotor rotation. Gear ratio determines retrieve speed. Higher quality gears are smoother and more durable.

The Body/Housing

Holds everything together. Made from graphite (lightweight), aluminum (durable), or magnesium (premium). Sealed bodies protect internals from water and dirt.

The Anti-Reverse

Prevents the handle from spinning backward. One-way bearing system. Critical for solid hooksets. Premium reels have instant anti-reverse with zero back-play.

Baitcasting Reel Components

The Spool

Rotates during casting and retrieve. Spool weight affects casting—lighter spools cast lighter lures better. Aluminum spools are standard.

The Braking System

Controls spool speed during casting to prevent backlashes. Two types:

• Magnetic brakes: Use magnets to slow spool (easier to adjust)
• Centrifugal brakes: Use friction pins (more advanced control)

The Drag System

Star drag (star-shaped wheel on handle side) is most common. Some have clicker drags for fighting big fish.

The Levelwind

Mechanical guide that distributes line evenly across the spool. Prevents line from bunching up.

The Gear System

Direct drive from handle to spool provides more power than spinning reels. Gear ratios typically range from 5.1:1 to 9.0:1.

Bearings

Ball bearings reduce friction in the reel, making retrieves smoother. More bearings don’t always mean better performance—quality matters more than quantity.

Bearing Types:

• Stainless steel: Standard, good corrosion resistance
• Shielded: Protected from dirt and water
• Sealed: Maximum protection (premium reels)
• Ceramic hybrid: Ultra-smooth, expensive

Common bearing counts: 3-5 bearings (budget), 6-8 bearings (mid-range), 10+ bearings (premium). But a reel with 5 quality sealed bearings outperforms one with 10 cheap unsealed bearings.

Understanding Reel Specifications

Reel specs tell you everything about performance. Here’s how to decode them.

Reel Size (Spinning Reels)

Spinning reels are sized by numbers: 1000, 2500, 3000, etc. Higher numbers mean larger reels.

Note: Size numbering isn’t standardized across brands. A Shimano 2500 might equal a Daiwa 3000. Check line capacity specs to compare.

Line Capacity

Tells you how much line the spool holds. Listed as “Line Weight / Yards.”

Example: “10 lb / 200 yds” means the reel holds 200 yards of 10 lb test line.

Why it matters: You need enough line capacity for your target species. Bass fishing typically needs 150-200 yards. Saltwater fishing might need 300+ yards.

Maximum Drag

The maximum pressure the drag can apply before line slips. Measured in pounds.

Common ranges:

• Light reels: 7-10 lb drag
• Medium reels: 15-20 lb drag
• Heavy reels: 25+ lb drag

Higher max drag doesn’t mean you’ll use it. Actual drag setting should be 25-30% of line strength to prevent break-offs.

Weight

Lighter reels reduce fatigue during long fishing days. But ultra-light reels sacrifice durability.

Typical weights:

• Ultralight spinning: 5-7 oz
• Medium spinning: 8-10 oz
• Heavy spinning: 11-15 oz
• Baitcasting: 6-9 oz (most models)

Balance matters more than raw weight. A 9 oz reel that balances your rod perfectly feels lighter than a poorly balanced 7 oz reel.

Gear Ratios Explained

Gear ratio is one of the most misunderstood reel specs. Here’s what it actually means and why it matters.

What Is Gear Ratio?

Gear ratio tells you how many times the rotor (spinning reel) or spool (baitcasting reel) rotates for each turn of the handle.

Example: A 6.2:1 gear ratio means:

• Spinning reel: Rotor spins 6.2 times per handle turn
• Baitcasting reel: Spool rotates 6.2 times per handle turn

Higher gear ratios retrieve line faster. Lower gear ratios provide more power.

Gear Ratio Categories

Slow (4.0:1 to 5.4:1)

Power fishing – Maximum cranking power, slowest retrieve

• Best for: Deep diving crankbaits, heavy jigs, big fish
• Advantage: Less fatigue with heavy lures, more hookset power
• Disadvantage: Slow line pickup

Medium (5.5:1 to 6.5:1)

Versatile fishing – Balanced power and speed

• Best for: Most bass fishing, walleye, general use
• Advantage: Works for multiple techniques
• Most popular range for all-around fishing

Fast (6.6:1 to 7.5:1)

Speed fishing – Quick line pickup

• Best for: Spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, fast retrieves, taking up slack
• Advantage: Recover line quickly between casts
• Disadvantage: Less power for fighting big fish

Extra Fast (7.6:1 to 9.0:1+)

Specialized speed fishing – Maximum line pickup

• Best for: Flipping, pitching, frogs, topwater
• Advantage: Pull fish out of cover quickly
• Disadvantage: Sacrifices power

IPT (Inches Per Turn)

IPT tells you how many inches of line you retrieve per handle turn. This is more useful than gear ratio for understanding actual retrieve speed.

Why IPT matters more than gear ratio: A 6.2:1 reel with a small spool might retrieve 25 inches per turn. A 5.5:1 reel with a large spool might retrieve 28 inches per turn.

Typical IPT ranges:

• Slow: 20-24 inches per turn
• Medium: 25-29 inches per turn
• Fast: 30-35 inches per turn
• Extra fast: 36+ inches per turn

Matching Gear Ratio to Technique

Drag Systems Explained

The drag system is the most important component of any fishing reel. A smooth, consistent drag lands fish. A jerky, inconsistent drag loses fish.

How Drag Systems Work

Drag systems use friction to apply controlled resistance to the spool. When a fish pulls line harder than the drag setting, the line slips instead of breaking. Quality drags apply consistent pressure throughout the range. Cheap drags have “stiction” (stick-slip behavior) that causes line breaks.

Types of Drag Systems

Front Drag (Spinning Reels)

Adjustment knob on the front of the spool.

• Advantages: Smoother, more powerful, larger drag washers
• Disadvantages: Harder to adjust mid-fight
• Best for: Serious anglers, larger fish

Rear Drag (Spinning Reels)

Adjustment knob at the back of the reel body.

• Advantages: Easy to adjust while fighting fish
• Disadvantages: Less powerful, smaller washers
• Best for: Beginners, situations requiring frequent adjustment

Star Drag (Baitcasting Reels)

Star-shaped adjustment wheel on the handle side.

• Most common baitcaster drag
• Easy to adjust with one hand
• Smooth on quality reels

Drag Materials

Felt Washers

Traditional material, still used in budget reels. Inconsistent when wet, wears quickly. Avoid for serious fishing.

Carbon Fiber

Standard in mid-range to premium reels. Smooth, consistent, durable. Performs well wet or dry.

Ceramic

Premium material. Ultra-smooth, very durable, expensive. Found in high-end reels.

Sealed vs Unsealed Drags

Sealed drags: Protected from water, sand, and dirt. Essential for saltwater. Recommended for freshwater. Maintain smoothness longer.

Unsealed drags: Exposed to elements. Degrade faster, especially in saltwater. Require more maintenance.

Drag Setting Guidelines

Proper drag setting prevents line breaks and lost fish.

General rule: Set drag to 25-30% of line breaking strength.

Examples:

• 10 lb line → 2.5-3 lb drag
• 15 lb line → 3.75-4.5 lb drag
• 20 lb line → 5-6 lb drag

How to set drag:

1. Tie line to a fixed object or use a scale
2. Pull line at 90-degree angle to rod
3. Adjust drag until line slips at desired weight
4. Test while holding rod at fighting angle (45 degrees)

How to Choose the Right Reel

Follow this systematic approach to find your perfect reel:

Step 1: Choose Your Reel Type

Choose Spinning if:

• You’re a beginner
• You use light lures (under 1/2 oz)
• You want versatility
• You fish in windy conditions

Choose Baitcasting if:

• You’re experienced
• You use heavy lures (over 1/4 oz)
• You need precision and power
• You fish for bass or big predators

Step 2: Determine Your Budget

Budget ($30-$60)

• Basic performance, heavier, limited durability
• Fine for kids or very occasional use
• Expect to replace within 1-2 years

Mid-Range ($60-$150)

• Good quality, decent smoothness
• Best value for most anglers
• Should last 3-5 years with care

Premium ($150-$300)

• Excellent performance, very smooth
• Premium materials and construction
• Better warranties (often lifetime)

High-End ($300+)

• Tournament-grade
• Marginal performance gains
• Only for serious anglers

Step 3: Match Size to Your Rod

For Spinning Reels:

Step 4: Consider Your Target Species

Bass Fishing: 2500-3000 spinning or medium baitcaster
Trout: 1000-2500 spinning
Walleye: 2500-3000 spinning
Pike/Muskie: 4000+ spinning or heavy baitcaster
Saltwater (inshore): 3000-5000 spinning (sealed drag)

Step 5: Pick Your Gear Ratio

Match to your most common technique:

• Crankbaits: 5.1:1 – 5.5:1
• All-around: 6.2:1
• Fast retrieves: 7.0:1+

If unsure, 6.2:1 is the most versatile.

Top 10 Fishing Reels Comparison

After testing hundreds of reels, these are our top picks across different categories and budgets.

Browse Reels by Category

Explore our detailed guides for specific types of fishing reels:

Reel Care & Maintenance

Proper maintenance extends reel life and maintains performance. Here’s what you need to know:

After Every Fishing Trip

• Rinse with fresh water: Critical for saltwater. Spray entire reel, avoiding direct stream into drag
• Dry completely: Wipe with soft cloth, let air dry
• Check drag: Loosen drag completely before storage to prevent washer compression
• Inspect bail/handle: Look for damage or unusual wear

Weekly Maintenance (Heavy Use)

• Oil handle knob: One drop of reel oil on handle shaft
• Clean line roller: Wipe dirt and debris from bail roller bearing
• Check line: Inspect for nicks, abrasions, or fraying

Monthly Maintenance

• Deep clean: Remove spool, wipe down all surfaces
• Lubricate: Apply reel oil to moving parts (not drag washers!)
• Check screws: Tighten any loose screws on handle, bail arm

Annual Maintenance

• Full service: Consider professional servicing for premium reels ($30-50)
• Re-grease: Apply reel grease to gears (requires disassembly)
• Replace line: Fresh line annually even if it looks good
• Inspect bearings: Replace worn or corroded bearings

Common Issues & Fixes

Bail Won’t Close

Usually dirt or corrosion in the bail spring. Clean with Q-tip and reel oil. If broken, replace bail assembly ($10-30).

Handle Wobble

Loose handle nut. Tighten with appropriate wrench. If problem persists, internal shaft may be damaged.

Jerky Drag

Dirty or dry drag washers. Remove spool, clean washers with soft cloth, apply thin layer of drag grease (NOT regular grease!).

Line Twist

Common with spinning reels. Fill spool properly (not overfilled, not underfilled). Use swivels with lures that spin.

Common Reel Selection Mistakes

Avoid these costly errors:

Mistake #1: Buying Based on Bearing Count Alone

Marketing hype: “12 bearings!” Reality: 5 quality sealed bearings outperform 12 cheap unsealed bearings. Focus on bearing quality and seals, not quantity.

Mistake #2: Choosing the Wrong Reel Size

Too small = weak drag, short casts. Too large = heavy, unbalanced. Match reel size to your rod. A 1000-size reel on a 7-foot medium rod looks silly and performs worse.

Mistake #3: Ignoring Gear Ratio

Buying a 7.5:1 reel for crankbaits is exhausting. Buying a 5.1:1 for topwater means missing hooksets. Match gear ratio to technique.

Mistake #4: Choosing Rear Drag “For Convenience”

Rear drags are weaker and less smooth than front drags. Unless you absolutely need mid-fight adjustment (very rare), choose front drag.

Mistake #5: Buying Baitcaster as First Reel

Baitcasters require practice. Backlashes will frustrate beginners. Start with spinning, then upgrade to baitcasting after mastering basics.

Mistake #6: Overfilling or Underfilling Spool

Proper spool fill is 1/8″ from spool lip. Overfilling causes tangles. Underfilling reduces casting distance. This matters.

Mistake #7: Not Balancing Rod and Reel

Heavy reel on light rod = terrible. Light reel on heavy rod = also terrible. Test balance before buying. The combo should feel natural.

Mistake #8: Buying Cheap Reels “To Start”

$30 reels create bad habits and frustration. They tangle, backlash, and break. A beginner needs a RELIABLE reel more than an expert does. Spend $100 minimum.

Frequently Asked Questions